Around 25 years ago, South African wine started going through a revolution. New, young people like Eben Sadie, the Mullineux, Peter-Allan Finlayson came with their global experience, working and tasting internationally. Their wine set new quality standards but they wouldn’t be where they are today if they weren’t aware that wine is a journey rather than a destination.
After the revolution comes evolution, a step now being made by many, including John Seccombe. He and his wife, Tasha established Thorne and Daughters in 2012 on their return from the UK, where John qualified in viticulture and oenology. Their first wines were Rocking Horse and Tin Soldier. The latter, a skin-contact semillon, both blanc and its gris mutation.
Rocking Horse has gone on to carve its place in the top tier of South African blends; the new 2023 is up with the best. The blend, mainly semillon and roussanne, is backed by chardonnay and clairette, the percentages varying according to what John feels makes the best reflection of the vintage, which in 2023 is fabulous in its expressive aromatics. Still youthfully tight, it will benefit from another year to express its full flavour and structure.
Unlike many signature wines, Rocking Horse accounts for 35% of production; its popularity can be well-spread.
Since 2016, John has also spread his formerly ‘white wine wings’ to include his first commercially available red: Wanderer’s Heart, a Rhône-style blend. Delicious and good value, it need stand back for none of the white range.
Tin Soldier is where the most marked evolution has occurred. In the photo of that gold/copper wine, I’m drinking 2015. It’s very pleasant but even after nine years, the tannins remain slightly out of balance and overly firm.
John admitted in early vintages he had been heavy-handed with skin contact, now he employs a much lighter touch. Tin Soldier 2023, with reduced time on the skins, just a week, has great balance between semillon’s silky texture and a gentle handshake of tannin. The result is a much more refined wine than 2015, a benefit which applies to the whole range.
This cycle has been repeated by others who follow the skin-contact for whites regime; there is still a story of individualism to tell, but now in more palatable, refined form. The journey continues, but for now …
The revolution is dead. Long live the evolution!
Out of the Press 